When Two Nights Became One...Trials & Tribulations On The Roans

This summer has seemed dominated by problems and weather. This means I had only been camping twice (not counting the Elkmont trip, which ended in June), and both of those were car camps. I had been backpacking since a May trip to Rocky Fork. Well, I would change that Wednesday with a trip to the Roans.

Truth be told, the original plan was to head to the Humps, but decided I wasn't really ready for that trip and it would be a good decision for many reasons I will touch on. So, instead, I decided to go up to the Roans instead.

I first drove up to the Roan Gardens area to run the drone and then hiked out to Roan High Bluffs. It had been a couple of years since my last trip out there. This time, I did the shorter hike of a mile out and back. I did this so I could put up the drone to good results. 

The trip up from Carvers Gap was harder than in the past. I know I keep getting older, but a 40-pound pack doesn't help. I don't know how it got so heavy. I mean, my Big Agnes is lighter than my Kelty Salida. Well, this weight issue is something I need to figure out. 

Because of my lack of hiking and heavy pack, I decided to keep my original plan and camp first at Jane Bald and then head to Grassy Ridge Bald on Thursday. One thing I have to say about the day was when the sun was out, it was abnormally hot for the Roans. Luckily, as soon as the sun started to set, so did the temperature, and it made for a pleasant evening. 

When I turned in for the evening, I didn't expect problems, but I would be wrong. When I went to bed, I had to blow up my sleeping pad (REI Rails), which wasn't unusual. What wasn't is waking up in the middle of the night after the pad deflated. Not all the way, but enough, and no, it's not fun having to blow it back up at 3 am. When I woke up in the morning, I knew it had a hole but found no sign of it. So, because of that and other reasons, I decided to cut the trip short. Pete wasn't happy, but I placated him by going up to Grassy Ridge Bald, and he was content. Also in the morning my sunrise was blocked by clouds and before long, I was shrouded in them. So, Thursday's views weren't like the day before.

Anyway, while shorter than I wanted, it was still a great overnight, and I found a new place to eat in Roan Mountain (Smoky Mountain Bakery) for pizza...win and win!

Horse Creek Set The Stage For Privy Repair With USFS

On Wednesday I was heading back up to Jerry Cabin Shelter to do repair work on the privy. However, I was getting a ride up from the US Forest Service (USFS) to the Appalachian Trail (AT) and the shelter on the Sam Waddle Section.  Since our meeting was early Wednesday I decided to camp at Horse Creek Campground in the Recreation Area. It wasn't far from our meeting place at another recreation area, Round Knob. While I had camped nearby at Old Forge Campground but never at Horse Creek. 

I had walked through the campground as an old, mostly paved, trail goes from the main picnic pavilion to the swimming hole. So I had an idea of sites, but I decided on number eight. It was a beautiful site next to the trail and Horse Creek. It was a short walk to get water and to where the Campground Host resided. He was a friendly man named Nathan. Anyway, it was a really pleasant evening and I got to put my new tent, Big Agnes Salt Creek 2P, through its paces (more later). I even got a sunset in with the drone.

The following day I got ready to head out Pete was right about one thing a strange person did surprise us and I gave him a drink of water. The host Nathan would text later that he helped the guy out. 

Shortly after I made it to Round Knob my partner for the day, Taylor, a Trail Technician arrived with the ATV for our trip up. I will say it was a different experience to ride up instead of hiking. The road was even rougher than a month ago, so riding made that better. Also not having to carry the larger board and drill was a big plus, too. Once at the AT, we were greeted by a cloud-shrouded trail.

Once up there the main two jobs were replacing a board on the privy and raking it...again. I will say that this time was nowhere close to how bad it was in June. I was better prepared (respirator and rubber gloves) and there wasn't the volume or as many flies. Before doing that job I replaced the board on the front of the privy at the door. It had rotted through so I cleared out the old wood, took out the screws, and replaced them and the board. Unbeknownst to me when Taylor came to check on my progress I had him take the old wood back to the shelter (for firewood). Suddenly he dropped it because there was a Black Widow Spider. I realized I had just had my hand there a few minutes prior...lucky! 

We also met a thru-hiker who had set her tent up inside the shelter. Going by the trail name "Serene" she was headed off trail because of all the rain lately. After fixing the upper water's flow we headed back. First I did some lopping and we almost got stuck when the 4WD slid partially off the trail. But Taylor's expert handling of the vehicle got us out of that tight spot. 

Then it was time to cut out some trees. Taylor had brought along his chainsaw and we had identified a number of problem trees on our way in. By far the biggest was the old Elephant Tree that Paul and I had discovered fallen on the trail in March. The Carolina Mountain Club had decided to leave the tree because it would be a job and people had detoured around it. But we had a hard time getting the ATV by the tree coming in so Taylor said it would be no problem taking it out. While it did take some time we got it done almost unscathed. 

Once back at the car, I discovered an issue, I had a flat tire. With some ingenuity, we got it off and me going. Even with a number of headaches, it was a good overnight work trip to the Sam Waddell Section. 

Bears In Elkmont...It Must Be Summer!

While it might be a fortnight back, let's briefly revisit when Spring became Summer (meteorological) at Elkmont in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP).

GSMNP

Now, there is no way I can top the colorful story spun by my hiking partner, "Psycho" Pete. He's right there was a bear in our section of Elkmont Campground. I talked with someone, and the Mama Bear and Cub had been spotted the previous night near H-7 where we were set up. Yes, the Park Rangers put a baited bear trap across from my campsite. Oh, and yes, the woman camped across from us left, and the couple behind us left late in the evening and didn't return. But we stayed, and I can't verify Pete's account, but he's sticking to it. 

Elkmont Campground

This was right across from my campsite.

The bears didn't scare us off.

The next morning & are neighbors (BR) didn't come back.

The rest of the trip included some somewhat synchronized fireflies, a hike through Daisy Town, and the old ruins of the Wonderland Hotel. Then, I ended the trip at Cataract Falls and Fighting Creek Trail at the John Ogle Cabin, which is being refurbished...

Daisy Town before Firefly watching Wednesday evening.

At the Wonderland Hotel on Thursday...

...the Cataract Falls...

...& (T) The John Ogle Cabin. (B) View of Gatlinburg & Mt. LeConte.

SmugMug Photos

Wildflowers Just One Highlight Of Two Days & Three Places Hiking & Camping In East Tennessee

Last Thursday wasn't all about wildflowers as my trip to Buffalo Mountain was just the start of the day. It culminated with an overnight at Rocky Fork State Park (RFSP). 

As I talked about here I was looking for wildflowers, specifically Mountain Laurel. I park where I usually do and took the Noggin Trail up to White Rock. This takes me to Huckleberry Knob, which is the starting point for the Spoon Wood blooms. I also took the opportunity to send up the drone. I hiked up past Sunset Point and onto the Lady Slipper Trail. While I didn't find any Lady Slippers here I did on the Fork Knob Trail. I did hike it to its upper terminus with the White Rock Trail. From here, I turned back and returned the way I came as Rocky Fork beckoned. 

At Buffalo Mountain

Huckleberry Knob...

...Buffalo Mountain...

...& Johnson City from 400 feet above.

Sunset Point

My trip on the Lady Slipper & Fork Knob Trails

(Clockwise) Mountain Laurel, Pink Lady Slipper, Rattlesnake Weed, Flame Azalea, Pea, Indian Psychic

I did worry some with the darkening skies as I headed east on I-26. But when I got to Rocky Fork I just made sure to pack my rain gear, but I wouldn't need it. I was heading to Flint Creek Trail Backcountry Campsite for the night. It is the closest and easiest of the backcountry sites to reach. It was my second time here with my first in July of 2021. As I wrote about then it is a nice site with a pair of tent pads, fire rings, and bear boxes, but one privy. Like last time I chose the back site. It was just good to be out for the night and as it seems these days I always sleep better.

Starting out at Rocky Fork

Highlights of the Flint Creek Trail

Flint Creek Trail Backcountry Campsite

Enjoying the campsite

So, I had another day of hiking planned to Whitehouse Cliffs on Friday. Anyway, when I broke camp this was still the plan. Three years ago I hiked up the Whitehouse Cliffs Trail and was greeted with plenty of Mountain Laurel. However, that was early June, so I wasn't 100 percent sure they had flowered yet. After visiting the Rocky Fork Ranger Station the Mountain Laurel there showed I made the right decision (they weren't blooming). A place I knew they were was at Cliff Ridge above the Nolichucky Gorge. Well, by the time I got back to the trailhead I had talked myself out of going to Whitehouse Cliffs and onto Cliff Ridge. 

Heading back the next morning

Stopped by the Blue Hole... 

...then the ranger station

I have done this hike many times before. It starts a Chesota at the Nolichucky River Gorge and heads up southbound on the AT. While not too long it is a steep climb up to the Cliffs over the Gorge. Along the way I saw plenty of Mountain Laurel and once at the top even some Rattlesnake Weed. Once back at Chesota I even did some assisted photos. Oh, what better way to finish two days out than a trip to the Whistle Stop in Unicoi. It was a tonic for what I needed...

Heading on the AT...

...up to Cliff Ridge

Found more Mountain Laurel

Vista from Cliff Ridge

Clockwise) Rail Bridge, I-26, I-26 at Erwin, Pinnacle Mtn.

Unaka Mountain

Trip down to the Nolichucky

Take off at Chesota

(T) Chesota & Erwin (B) Nolichucky Gorge

SmugMug Photos:

It's Seven Years Good Luck For Buffalo Mountain 

Rocky Fork Makes For The Perfect Overnight

Finishing The Two Days On The AT On Cliff Ridge