Tales From The Wood Booger: The Wonderland Of Elkmont On A Return to the Smokies

Ahhh...the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) has always been one of my favorite places, but it had been two years since I passed through it. Well, that changed last week on an overnight trip to Elkmont Campground.

The last time I was in the Smokies was in October of 2019 driving across the Missing Link on the Foothills Parkway. Then the COVID Pandemic happened and knowing that the park would be crowded I just didn't want to deal with it, especially early in the outbreak. Then every time I would think about heading back to the GSMNP COVID would flare back up. But, I missed that old park and you have to take the plunge at some point.

October 2019

I wanted to do an overnight and the first choice was Cades Cove, but it was full. So, it was down to Elkmont and Smokemont and since I had been to the latter I decided on Elkmont. The reason I had never been to this historic section of the park.

Campgrounds: Cades Cove (T) & Smokemont (B)

With that, it was time for my first Smokies trip in two years. Before heading in I needed to get a headlamp which gave me an excuse to stop at the somewhat new Pigeon Forge REI. I hadn't stepped foot in any REI in two years and never this location that opened during the pandemic.

REI Pigeon Forge

A course on the way in I took the Gatlinburg Bypass and stopped at the Mt. LeConte and Gatlinburg overlooks (the latter has vegetation almost obscuring it). Once at Elkmont it was checking in and doing all of the camping-type stuff. One thing I knew when arriving was that the flush toilets were under repair, so they had port-a-potties, which were some of the cleanest I have seen. Oh, also they had these cool portable sinks with running water.

The Bypass Entrance

Mt. LeConte Overlook

Gatlinburg Overlook

On the way...

...to Elkmont Campground

The Campsite

After, it was time for a hike, first through the Elkmont Campground. Got to see a number of cool campers and one guy even had a portable satellite dish. Then took a short trail to the road and over to Historic Elkmont.

Around the campground

Some cool tents...

...& campers (+satellite dish)

The history behind this section of the park goes back to the 19th Century, first as a home for loggers and then vacation cabins in the early 20th. Then in negotiations for this area to be incorporated into the National Park, the initial bill allowing for the purchase of land in the Smokies exempted Elkmont from eminent domain. Cottage owners managed to gain a provision that allowed them to sell their cottages at half-price in exchange for a lifetime lease. Then in the early 50s, they were renegotiated to 20-year ones in exchange for electricity. This was 1952 and after one lease renewal, the Park Service announced the early 70s one would be the last. The park's 1982 General Management Plan calls for all structures to be removed to allow nature to reclaim the affected areas. The lease ended in 1993 but plans changed when a year later, the Wonderland Hotel (more on later) and several of the rustic cottages were placed on the National Register of Historic Places, giving them a special status. A debate immediately ensued over the fate of these structures. After a 2009 Final Environmental Impact Statement for Elkmont, the National Park Service announced plans to restore the Appalachian Clubhouse and eighteen cabins, primarily in the Daisy Town Section with one each in Millionaire's Row (Spence Cabin) and Society Hill (Byers Cabin). These three sections make up the Appalachian Club area of Elkmont. The remaining structures were carefully documented and removed in 2018 but many chimneys remain. So far half of the cabins have been finished and these can be toured daily, it is a look back into some of the histories of the park and it is good it is being preserved.

The one building in Millionaire's Row...

...Spence Cabin

Daisy Town: Some of the cabins are under construction...

...& some of the completed work

Appalachian Club

Once back a the campsite it building a fire time with dinner and s'mores. I have to say it was a very relaxing evening. The following morning it was breakfast and breaking down camp. See the plan for the day starts with the afford mentioned Wonderland Hotel site.

Cooking dinner...

...on the fire pit

Built-in 1912 it featured 50 rooms and a large porch for guests to relax. After World War I, it was bought by and became the Wonderland Club. Like the rest of Historic Elkmont, it also closed in 1993. Unfortunately, it quickly fell into disrepair with the main building collapsing in 2006 and the annex building burning down in 2016. What is left are walls, steps, and some impressive chimneys.

The Big Chimney is just one of the remains of the Wonderland Hotel

This wasn't the only thing on the day's agenda. The plan was to go to Clingmans Dome, where I hadn't been since May of 2019. I will admit when I saw the crowds at the Sugarlands Visitor Center and Newfound Gap I was concerned about how the crowd might be a Clingmans Dome, but the traffic going up was light so I was hopeful. I should have known those hopes would be dashed because I didn't reach the parking lot of Clingmans Dome. Nope, people were parked down the side of the road, and traffic was backed up to a crawl. So, to be COVID Safe the decision was to avoid the madness and head back towards Newfound Gap...it was just the right call.

May 2019

Maloney Point

Headed up Newfound Gap Road

The Loop

Morton Overlook

No thank you...

But I got some fine autumn views heading back and even made a stop at the old Hikers Tunnel and Newfound Gap. One thing I noticed at the higher elevations was the nice fall colors (the main reason for the crowds).

Fall color...

...& views

Indian Gap & AT

The Hiker Tunnel

Newfound Gap

Mt. LeConte...

...mountain clouds...

...& Clingmans Dome

Chimney Tops

Bull Head with clouds

To finish the day it was a drive through a packed Gatlinburg. While I could have done without the crowds, Elkmont was worth the trip and it was good to return to the Smokies!